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For GKs/Customs: Reccomended primer?For GKs/Customs: Reccomended primer?

I'm pretty new to the process of painting figures and I'm not sure if there are any specific primers that work best for working with figures. This is my second project, and on my first (a custom Nendoroid), I used an all-purpose primer from a hardware store that ended up coming out rather unevenly. Are there any specific primers that you use? Also, are there any clear primers out there? I'm working on another custom Nendoroid and I'd like to have some kind of primer on the faceplates before I add on any of the eye appliques with waterslide decal paper, but I don't want to have to repaint the whole faceplate.
284 hits • 8 comments

留言8

1pt
SerpentyleTorc (26天前) #69250903I'm just a beginner myself but I've heard Mr.Super Clear recommended a lot.
I've found Kryloan primer to be halfway decent, though it can go on quite grainy. Their sealers SUCK BALLS tho.I've yet to find a good sealer/top coat


It depends on which of the Krylon primers you're using, I've been using one that goes smooth as skilk, and use their sealers as well, never had a problem with them.
25天前
1pt
This actually somewhat falls under a side business of mine, so I'm always happy to see this sort of question. I actually make a lot of GKs. The painting process is what I consider fun, so I usually end up selling them to folks afterwards. Honestly, as a rule of thumb custom figure work pretty much uses the same stuff you'd see popularly used with Gunpla.

So we're talking any of the primers from Tamiya or Mr. Color's Mr. Surfacer line. Alcad works great too if you can get access to it. Mr. Color and Tamiya both have spray can options if you haven't worked up to airbrush levels of skill yet, and they work like an absolute dream to boot. While it's true basic stuff from the hardware store will work -often enough-, this is one of those cases where you truly get what you pay for. The stuff from the highly specialized hobby folks (Tamiya, Mr. Color, Alcad, etc etc) are infinitely more reliable and consistent.

My biggest tip to anyone else trying to jump into the fun world of GKs or customs (you, friend!) is that your piece will only ever be as good as the amount of preparation you put in. So if you put a lot of time into finely sanding your piece, and prime it with an absolutely smooth coat of primer you'll end up having an infinitely more consistent and "professional" looking product when you're done.

Depending on whether you want to go with sprays or stuff for airbrushes I could give you some links to exact products. Depending on what it is you're trying to make I could also recommend various other things for custom work too nanoyasa!
25天前
1pt
I used a lot of Gunpla resources when making my custom Nendoroid, and I think they would help you a lot in this case! Along with the Mr. Super Clear gloss coat, there are tools like Mr. Mark Setter (a weak glue that stops the decal from sliding off the faceplate when you're positioning it) and Mr. Mark Softer (a weak acid that makes the positioned decal "melt" into the surface a bit, which makes it look less like a sticker). There's also a few different brands who make similar products for stuff like vehicle models miniatures, if you can't find any local sellers of Mr. Hobby materials.
26天前
1pt
Honestly I would recommend the Citadel Corax White primer (or really any primer for model kits that’s white). If you’re painting skin tones, you’ll want the lighter primer. P3 is another primer brand I use frequently and can recommend.
26天前
5pt
ponnie ~Donyatsu Huntress~
Mr Super Clear gloss is awesome as a substitute for clear primer. It also protects resin from yellowing. Never use matte as a base layer for decals! Only gloss or you'll end up with white dots under your decal..

Good figure primers are produced by Mr Hobby, but mind the grit stated on the can/bottle. The bigger the number, the finer and smoother the surface but primer filling properties get weaker.

For example, great white primer for figures is Mr Base White but it is very fine and won't fill bubbles and scratches. For that you have to either use putty or lower grit gray primers.

Personally I kinda hate dealing with grey primer and grey blotches it leaves, you'll need a rather thick layer of white to cover all that and it makes final product look cakey.

Also, using low grit craft primers will result in rough and grainy surface. Either avoid these or polish primed surface with 1000 grit before painting.

P.S. To get an even smooth spray from a can primer, let it get warm in a tub of hot water and then shake it for 3-5 minutes before use. It helps to mix the pigment and solvent inside a lot.
26天前
2pt
Can't recommend a brand but there is a guy on a model painting community that was doing an experiment and found that they are basically the same. I also use primer from hardware store and it's good. AFAIK, the difference between the ones from hardware stores and primers for model is their nozzle. The former was designed for large areas and fast application so the result is more coarse and uneven. I found that wet sanding after applying the primer helps. Other possible causes for your problem are maybe: too close to the object, spend too much time on one area (it should be like misting), or your place is too cold (temperature matters, you could soak the can in warm water beforehand). Hope it helps
26天前
1pt
SerpentyleTorc (26天前) #69250903I'm just a beginner myself but I've heard Mr.Super Clear recommended a lot.
I've found Kryloan primer to be halfway decent, though it can go on quite grainy. Their sealers SUCK BALLS tho.I've yet to find a good sealer/top coat


Will definitely look into Mr. Super Clear! As for sealer/top coat, I've used Testors Spray Dullcote before and it ended up looking pretty good.
26天前
1pt
I'm just a beginner myself but I've heard Mr.Super Clear recommended a lot.

I've found Kryloan primer to be halfway decent, though it can go on quite grainy. Their sealers SUCK BALLS tho.I've yet to find a good sealer/top coat
26天前
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